I spent day in England’s oldest city on hottest day of year

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Colchester has been around for nearly two millennia — England’s oldest recorded town, once a Roman capital, now a busy mix of history, shops and everyday life.

On this particular day, though, it felt like the city was under a very modern pressure: a heatwave pushing temperatures up to around 34°C, turning familiar streets into a slow, shimmering blur of heat.

I went into the day thinking I might struggle to enjoy it.

Staying indoors felt tempting.

But almost immediately, I realised that being outside — carefully, strategically — was actually better than sitting in a stifling flat.

Castle Park is a treasure (Image: Newsquest Reporter)

I started in Castle Park, which on a day like this feels like Colchester’s greatest asset.

The open green space had a steady breeze cutting through the heat.

It was noticeably cooler here than anywhere in the city centre.

Historic-Colchester Castle (Image: Newsquest Reporter)

I sat for a while, taking it in, watching people drift in and out of the shade, all of us falling into the same routine of conversation: it’s too hot, isn’t it?

That became the theme of the day.

Strangers, passers-by, shop staff — everyone talking about the weather, as if it was the only shared language left.

Former Claydons store is the place to go for ice-cream (Image: Newsquest Reporter)

From the park, I walked to pick up an ice cream from the former Claydons grocery store.

I went for mint chocolate chip — cold, sweet, and gone far too quickly in the heat, but exactly what I needed at that moment.

My mint-chocolate chip ice-cream (Image: Newsquest Reporter)

It was one of those small, simple reliefs that makes the weather feel just about manageable.

Not long after, I grabbed a Black Sheep iced coffee as an extra boost — cold, strong, and slightly necessary as the heat began to really bite.

I made my way down the High Street next.

Unsurprisingly, it was quiet.

Far fewer people than you would normally expect, even for a weekday.

High Street was fairly empty (Image: Newsquest Reporter)

The heat was relentless, the sun reflecting off pavements and shopfronts, making it feel hotter than the thermometer suggested.

I was sweating through my walk, but I couldn’t help noticing how beautiful the city looked in full sun — the old buildings glowing in a way you don’t often see in Britain.

To keep going, I stopped for an iced strawberry boba tea — cold, refreshing, and a reminder that hydration becomes a kind of survival strategy on days like this.

The bubble tea (Image: Newsquest Reporter)

Cup in hand, I wandered past independent shops in Red Lion Yard and made a quick stop at the Red Lion Bookstore, where the shaded interiors felt like a temporary escape from the heat outside.

Lunch was a simple meal deal, eaten back in Castle Park with views of the historic Norman keep.

Sitting on the grass again, I found that same cooling breeze I’d started the day with.

Historic-Colchester Castle (Image: Newsquest Reporter)

It made everything feel a bit more bearable, like the city was gently reminding you where the relief is if you look for it.

By late afternoon, I ended up at Poppina, the pop-up bar in the courtyard, for a chilled beer.

It felt like the natural end point to the day — something cold, something slow, a place to pause after moving between shade and sun all day.

Poppina (Image: Newsquest Reporter)

Colchester was scorching, no doubt about it.

But it also showed its best side in unexpected ways: green space that actually works, independent spots offering shade and refuge, and a rhythm to the city that adapts when the temperature rises.

Would I choose to repeat a 34-degree day like this? Probably not.

But as far as ways to spend one go, Colchester made it surprisingly easy to get through.

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